My Layout: Layout Track Wiring

Well, I don't have the ability to work on the layout, so now I can catch up with some blog posts here and there with projects I did awhile ago.

How do we get power to the rails?

Ignoring the dead rail movement, most modelers and books suggest soldering directly to the side of rails and I suppose you could do that on the side that no one sees, but I wanted to make it so one couldn't see after ballasting, the wires that power the layout at all.

I thought about soldering to the bottom of the rail, like I did on the AtlasO switches that I beefed up to ensure they wouldn't fail on me, but it was already a lot of work to cut out the ties and solder the wires to the switches without melting the plastic ties.  Then I had an idea to solder the the rail joiners like AtlasO sells.  Worried about contact, I also clasp down on the rail joiners with needle nose pliers to ensure they fit the rails super tight.

Below is a photo gallery of some work I did on the switches, followed by my method of soldering power leads to the rail joiners.  For planning purposes, I figured out where to put my feeders based on a general track plan I had for AtlasO track.  After having the track in place, I would mark on the roadbed where the rail joiners would be and then drill holes to have them come up in exactly the right place.

Now for the photo essay.

 The first track I initially laid.  This is where Pegram Shops will be and it is raised up on thin sheet of wood in case it needs to be moved in the future.

 I have a previous blogpost on how I did these, but I had gone through and soldered new jumpers across the tracks that can handle higher current. I also tapped and added wires to the frogs, though I'm starting to think I can get away with unpowered frogs.

 A photo when I set up a little switch assembly line to add/solder the new jumpers on the switches.

  Some jumper creation close ups to replace the existing ones.

To conceal these jumpers, I made sure the solid-core wire was flexed downward towards the ties.  That way when ballasting occurs, you can't see these.

 

Another AtlasO switch upgrade...the frogs can move...and possibly cause shorts...so better to cut pieces of styrene into the gaps and glue them in there and sand them in place to prevent this. Another assembly line was made for that.

Finished result of the styrene frog insulators. Thanks Ed Rappe for the tip.

 

 

This shows a few things.  The 18/2 I used for my feeders. The tunes I can jam to while doing this work. The Pegram Shops tracks in the distance are separate the same distance and consist of two pieces of track, a 10" and I believe ME flex (that doesn't really flex.)  For now, there is a piece of wood held down with clamps to keep anything from rolling off onto the floor.  The double-track mainline are the two tracks closest to the camera on the right.

This image shows the that there is a gap in the AtlasO track for wires.  I have to be careful in how I solder to the rail joiners so that the feeders come down exactly in this gap.

Here's a close up of clearance for the feeder wires.  You cannot put it on the right side without cutting in the plastic and hurting the integrity of the track connector.

Here's what a complete piece of track looks like.

So here's an example of how the process works.  We have a track in position and then drill the two holes for the feeders.

 

I used this bit for the holes.

 Find the holes underneath and feed the feeders through the holes.

Connect the joiners to the tracks.  This shows this works with other track too as long as the ties aren't in the way.  This is ME track I believe.

 The finished result.  Can't see the wires at all.

Another example.  Won't see it when ballasted.

Just a random progress shot.  It showed I used big mats of cork as it was easier to do than line up every track exactly.

A parting shot looking down the Pegram Shops trackage.

Layout: First Video of the Southern Railway Piedmont Division

Description from the youtube page:
This is the inaugural run of the Southern Railway Piedmont Division.

The video shows a freight train made up of various rolling stock made by MTH, Lionel, AtlasO, and Weaver. Looks like I need to fix one of my curves.

The locomotive is a 3rd Rail/Sunset Models SD9, super-detailed and weathered for roughly 1970. The decoder is a Loksound L V4.0 select running the 16cyl 567C Full Throttle Sound File. A lot of tweaking still needs to be done in regards to headlight intensity, auto-notch increments, and volume control. The horns on this brand really aren't loud enough, when they should be louder than the prime mover.

Track is AtlasO.

DCC is Digitrax. (Though once I start consisting, I may want to move to either NCE or ECoS, since I read Digitrax doesn't do it well.)

Video camera is a GoPro HERO+ set at 1080P60 settings, but apparently the room isn't lit (I'm blaming the lighting, but I am not 100% sure.) enough to get the best quality. The GoPro takes very nice video outside. Somewhat disappointing in that I can't get the same quality inside. I tried a Sony HDR-AS10 and it did worse.

Layout Design and Initial Progress Photos - January 2018

I've spent the last month or two on my roughly 30' x13.5' layout, so I have at least a loop to run stuff around and show my friends and coworkers what model trains are like.  I tried to photograph various parts of it along the way to show what I did to build it.

I am unsure how long I will continue to live where I am, so I did not want to have too complex of a layout, but enough to stretch the legs of new and old purchases and tweak some Loksound Full Throttle decoders.

Here is the general layout diagram. It is generally followed, though the industries in the top left are not going to happen, and some curvatures ended up different in reality.

The original concept was to model the Southern Piedmont Division in and around Atlanta, GA.  This allows me the opportunity to model two interesting areas - Pegram Shops and Inman Yard.  Pegram Shops will be the showcase of this layout and allows me to complete two concepts:

1. The first is a standard place for roster shots. A lot of photo's were taken of locomotive power outside the shops over the years, so I will do the same.  
2. The shops allow me to more realistically roster a large variety and amount of the power. Since Atlanta was perhaps the biggest hub on the Southern, and almost everything came through there at some point in time.

Inman Yard is an interesting two-level yard that grew over the years, and even has photo evidence of some sort of icing station for reefers.  Some neat photos out of there.  The bottom two tracks will be elevated for the bi-level aspect and the rest of it will be used as typical classification yard, when completed.

A future layout may contain some sort of version of Terminal Station, but due to the nature of not wanting to make a layout more complex than it needed to be for now, I forego this in my design.

Height - 48" off the floor.
Track - Atlas O
Roadbed - Midwest cork
DCC - Digitrax (DCS200/UR92) w/ DCC Specialities PSX-1 and RRampmeter.
DCC Wiring - 10AWG bus, 18AWG feeders

Initial test train - 3rd Rail SD9 and various equipment from Lionel, Weaver, AtlasO and MTH

Below are some initial photos of the layout in benchwork stage with one loop of track completed.

 The first piece of track being laid on the right.

 Base area for any electronics. You can see the Digitrax Power supply, DCS200, UR92, PSX, RRampmeter.  The bus bars are for the 10AWG bus.

 View of layout down the length of it.

 Hinged area for easy interior access.

Front view of Pegram Shops Trackwork. Sorry for the mess.

Modeling: Fuel Filters Gone Wrong and My Layout Plan

So I have the fuel breathers all ready to go and one was even put on the model and come to find out, there is a mistake neither I nor the CAD designer saw....so while that is being fixed, and shapeways is being worked with, time for some layout work in my spare minutes. Oh well, it happens.

Here is one of a ready filter, that won't make it onto a model:

Below is the layout drawing.  Nothing special since I do not want to put too much effort into a layout that will more than likely not be my last layout.  Need something to show off my power and my rolling stock as well as show my friends what trains are about.

I am aware of the shortcomings of the layout. Don't really care.  What the drawing doesn't show is that the outside loop/back of Inman Yard are elevated.  Pegram Shops has been Selectively reduced...since it would take my whole basement to model that place correctly.  Another revision had Atlanta Terminal Station incorporated, but I rather not fill the entirety of this basement.  It will be on the next layout.

Also pretty much all AtlasO 2R track (with some other brands of flex track too).  Just makes life easier at this time.

Tracks are tentative, at least in the yard area, especially in the lower right.  Will take some time to rehash that later.

Layout: New Layout Space

I bought a basement and it came with a house.  The basement is 1200SQFT overall, but that's divided into two halves.  On the right side of the stairs is a bathroom, bedroom, utilities room.  On the left side of the stairs is a 40x13.5 room and an additional 16x11 room.  If things became dire, I would knock out some walls and extend the trainroom into the bedroom to add another 12' or so, but for now, that will not be necessary.

Below are two shots.  The first is of the trainroom.  It's still a mess, even a month after move-in.  I have rebuilt my shelves and the rolling stock boxes have been lined up on the left.  Once I move the Lionel boxes into the shelves, they will all sit below layout height and be out of sight.  There is a window immediately to the left, but I will figure out how to make something to cover over the window as I want to have scenery around all walls.  There is also a door on the far left that will let me bring materials easily into the house, but it too will be blocked by a swing-out piece for the layout.  This will also allow me to brew beer and easily move it all back inside for fermentation.

You can see the door to the storage room on the right to the second picture. (The entrance to the whole area is to the right of these doors as well.)

 

(Click on the images to see higher-resolution if desired.)

 

This second picture shows an unfinished storage room.  The right-hand side has a bunch of storage for train boxes and other materials and my tools.  The bowflex takes up quite a bit of space, but when I saw a deal for it for $100, I couldn't pass it up.  It will be nice not having to leave home to workout.

The lefthand side will become my initial workbench.  I've yet to figure out plans, but I am looking to have a 4ft section I can sit at and model and then an 8ft section to the right of that to do any serious house and train projects on.  The 4ft section will be about 29" high and the 8ft section is undecided...40" or so.  I'm still researching online for best practices.

I will probably finish out this room at some point, but its not urgent for me at this time.  I am still deciding whether or not I want to bring the layout into this space...break down all of the walls, or make a new entrance, close out where the current doors are, and have a tunnel come in there for a staging yard.

Lots of decisions...but more housework to be done before more fun can be had.

Review: A new round of 'O' Woodland Scenics Buildings

There was a new round of buildings from Woodland Scenics.  This set of 3 included a bike shop, a country store, and a billiards/barshop corner store.  I found myself in Chicagoland and picked up the only one I thought would fit in my industrial mini-city for about $89 after taxes from Menards. (A huge savings off the 129 or 139 MSRP despite needing to add my own LEDs to light it up).  Menards appears to team up with WS each year and has their own version of the buildings produced with alternate paint schemes.  Probably helps WS with tooling costs.

Anyway, here are some shots of the building I got.  Going to work to get the menards off the glass.  Not sure what I will do for the interior yet...that is a bit down the road.

Modeling: HO Oil Tanks in O

Was at a hobby shop sale a few months back and went exploring the HO aisles to see if there was anything I could use in O scale.

Found some nice tanks by Rix Products.  It took a few hours to put together the separate layers.  You have to pay attention to the rivet detail and be a real rivet counter.  It looks good...supposedly the 60' tank is roughly 30' tall and 12' in diameter in O.

Definitely something worth looking at if you're planning on doing an oil tank farm like I am doing.

I ended up painting mine oily black...almost a brownish color when the paint dries.  That is not reflected in the photos below.

Layout Construction - Control and Wiring

So I kind of never documented how I constructed my small L shaped switching layout that is nothing more than pretty much 2 4x8 boards put together.  It's basic design has 2x4s for the legs and a frame of 1x4's topped with plywood.  A few cross beams also go through the center of each 4x8.  The left-bottom 4x8 shown in the diagram below is set lower than the rest.  I wanted to do L-girder, but figured I can still achieve that with some extra wood and not have to worry about losing the space under the layout.  It will just be a little heavier than the 3 other pieces.  All 4x8 sections have been bolted together with the same bolts used to hold the legs to the frame.  This will make it easier to dismantle the layout when its time to move out of my current location and actually move it up stairs to get it out.  Since its going to be a mostly industrial area, plywood made sense as I will not have really any hilly scenery except for by the power plant region.

I'm using AtlasO track right now due to its ease in putting together, despite the requirement to have to rewire every switch of theirs due to a handy, but flawed design.  See a previous post on some of that work.

Here is overall layout design:

I used Atlas' RRTrack to do the design and wrote on it with my text editor.  I think I used the 3R library, edited to only have the 2R pieces that are currently made.  There are a few sections where some curves won't match up, but those will be done by cutting flex track.  With much of the track laid in the right 4x8 section, I wanted to go ahead and get some of it wired, so I could run my engines back and forth.  Below will show a photo essay of the work it took to get those wired and what my control area currently looks like...

The control point is at about 2 feet from where the 2 4x8s connect to make the L.  The picture shows all of the various components I have to run my 2R DCC.  I decided to go with Digitrax after learning more about it and getting a good deal on a system from Jerry Davis and George Lasley.  It also came with a 20A power supply that Digitrax makes.  So here is how it all works...

The 20A supply supplies power to the 8A DCS200 Booster.  This booster then supplies the DCC signal to everything connected to its Loconet port and from the track output.  That track output goes to two places.  One is to the PTB-100 (more on that next).  The other is to the DCC Specialities RRampmeter, which is specially made to read the square wave AC DCC signal and gives an accurate measurement of the current and voltage being used by my layout (I have no blocks).  From there, the power is fed to the PSX-1, which provides my extremely quick short circuit protection.  That device is also made by DCC Specialties and is customizable for amperage settings.  The PSX feeds to both of the 10AWG barrier (terminal) strips from Home Depot.  I had to get the jumpers from Digikey and they cost more than the strips...sad I know.  The jumpers for the 18AWG strips also cost more than those strips, but are readily available from Radio Shack.   I had gotten a deal on 10AWG wire from an OGR Forumite (along with the 18AWG wiring I am using for all the feeders and other needs), thus my usage of 10AWG wire.  I selected several feed points to run the wire to and have wired a bunch of feeders.  More on that after the PTB-100 info.

Looking back again at the picture, you can see a UR92, which provides the wireless signal from the DT402D. It is connected to the booster with an RJ12 cable.  It has its own power supply.  The lights on both the UR92 and the DT402D can be used to ensure that my signals are reaching the booster and vice versa.  A locobuffer2 is also shown wire-strapped to the leg.  That is used to connect my macbookpro with JMRI DecoderPro to my booster via the loconet terminal on the UR92.  This is used to program all of the decoders with a custom easy-to-use interface.  It removes the need to memorize and understand hundreds of CV settings across the different manufacturers.  It is a must have for DCC (I personally think everything in my control setup is a must have (ie - PSX, RRampmeter).  Last, I screwed in a screw to hold the voltmeter I regularly use on projects...now I will always know where it is.

So here's the PTB-100 setup.  The PTB-100 is made by soundtraxx and is necessary to program sound decoders that cannot be normally programmed with just the programming output of the booster.  PTB stands for programming track booster.  The PTB is wired from the booster, 20A supply, and is fed to a terminal block, which I will then eventually wire to a piece of isolated track on my layout that will be used to program engines.  Currently, I added a DPST switch that cuts the power on/off to the PTB100.  I was going to use the other prongs to control the power direction to the programming track...will design that later.

Another part of my control board is to use the Tam Valley Hex Frog Juicers (in the bottom right of the above photo).  I have about 11 switches on my layout and I have ran separate feeders to all of the frogs.  The first 6 I laid have been connected to one of these boards.  This board is used to instantly change the polarity of a switch, so that I can have all of my frogs powered and is especially needed for all of those little switcher engines to give an extra ability to safeguard against power failure.  It is wired from my track bus.  They are available from here: http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/

So I added a cheap light from Home Depot to under the layout...where I also have an extra workbench setup.  You can see the 10AWG wire coming from the right and swinging around to the ends of the track on my layout.  It goes directly through the wood beam at the left as I drilled a 1" hole in there, which is an easy way to get wiring held up along the layout.  Thinking back...I should have ran it across the middle of those tracks instead, but its okay, since my layout is so small.  You can see from white wire, red and green 18AWG wires that are my feeders to the track itself.  I ran the bus wire (10AWG) first and then soldered to the bottom of the track, the feeders that I knew would be long enough to reach the terminal/barrier strips.  I wire.  I then took the bus wire and used my wire strippers and an x-acto to remove sections of the bus and wrapped a feeder from the bus to the terminal in the correct polarity.  I then soldered that feeder to the bus wire.  I could have used suitcase connectors I guess, but soldering would have a 100% success rate.  Terminal strips made it easy to run multiple tracks to the same bus location and will make it easier to reuse wire if/when I decide to retire this layout. 

I double checked all of my work by taking my multimeter and ohming out the 2 rails to ensure there were no shorts.  I noticed I was not consistent in color coding the wiring from the track feeders and had to fix only one of the connections at the terminal.

Also, the red hangers were found at I think Lowes and were IMHO one of the better options for running wire as the top opens up and you can keep adding more wires into the channels when need be.  A very flexible option that is not ruined everytime one wants to make a change or replace a failed wire.  They take 2 drywall screws to anchor in place.  A 1" one at the top and a 2" one that goes in at an angle from the bottom.

This last photo shows the end of one of my bus runs.  It is wired to a terminal strip that has a snubber wired in parallel to the last feeder connection.  The snubber is used to cut down on issues with over-voltage that one can see, which has the potential to fry decoders.  Here's a website on more info on this topic (and many others) http://www.wiringfordcc.com/dcc_waveforms.htm  It was basically a 150ohm 2W resistor soldered to a .1uF capacitor.  The leads of those were then put in the terminal strip and connect the 2 bus wires.

The last item of interest here is that you'll also notice the bus wire is twisted a lot.  Several times per foot.  This is to reduce the inductance caused by the pair and hopefully reduce interference with other wiring on the layout.  This is also discussed on the previous website, among other sites that deal with DCC.  I'll end this with a photo of one of my snubbers:

My Layout: Wiring AtlasO Turnouts Part 2

So I am very close to having all of the turnouts I need to complete my switching layout.

With that, I've already started laying most of the track and before I could finish that step, I wanted to go ahead and wire the turnouts to avoid failure and frustration later, due to failure of AtlasO switches (the contacts under the switches fail over time)

Cutting away parts of the plastic substructure under the rail is easy as is soldering to that (as witnessed in Part 1), but the frogs gave me some trouble and are shown below. I was using my Weller 50W variable soldering iron set at 850 degrees and even after filing a section of one of my wyes, I was not able to heat sink it enough to keep the frog from melting off the ties.  The alloy they use also corroded.  I did not have silver solder at the time to try to solder to this, so I went ahead with the method below.  Silver solder may work, but I have not experimented with it at this time.

After some suggestions from the OGR Forum, I decided to go ahead and potentially make eyesores on all of my frogs by drilling a hole in them and tapping them for .25" 2-56 brass screws so I could solder to the heads from the bottom.  I will be wiring all of the frogs to some Tam Valley Frog Juicers. 

Another tip was to add styrene spacers to the frogs to ensure they don't short with any of the other rails from either movement or rail expansion.

Below is one last photo.  It shows the top and bottom of how the rails are connected and where I chose to cut the ties to add my own wires.  The top photo shows the frog in red - it is isolated from the rest of the switch.  The blue and green lines show the same rails that should be connected and where I wired across under the rail.  On one side of the turnout, I soldered pigtails that would all three go together through a hole under the layout to connect to the 10AWG bus I have running around the layout.  Those pigtails and small hole are drilled after I lay the roadbed, so that they are really close to the roadbed and will eventually be entirely covered and hidden by ballast.

Hopefully this provides a stepping stone for others to use to do similar work to do their best to hide wires on the rails.